Puppy Info

Pancreatitis

 This is perhaps the most important of the reasons not to feed your pet human food: the fat content tends to be so high that your animal runs the risk of developing pancreatitis, or inflammation of the pancreas. This is a potentially lethal condition and not easily treatable. Digestive enzymes produced in the pancreas in an inactive state are activated prematurely and begin to digest the pancreatic organ itself. Unlike conditions such as obesity and choking (which you can observe), your pet could be sick with pancreatitis without your knowing. The symptoms, when they manifest, mimic other, often less threatening digestive disorders. The worst foods -- those most like to cause pancreatic problems -- are cheeses and pork products. If your dog were to eat a whole bowl of  cheese dip, for instance, it is guaranteed to develop pancreatitis. A pet's digestive system, while perhaps geared towards eating rodents and feathers and such as we could never digest, is not suited to processing the high volumes of fat which we humans can deal with. Would your  puppy love a bowl of cheese dip? You bet. Could it kill him? Unfortunately, the answer is yes.

Toxic People Foods

PARVOVIRUS

Parvo is a virus that is easily picked up and performs a series of life cycles. This nasty virus can easily survive it's enviroment and contamenate again and again with out careful prevention. There are many options you can give when trying to "cure" a puppy of this virus.
The virus is transmitted by oral ingestion of viral contaminated feces. Feces can contaminate the enviroment. This means even walking from one yard to the next with deep tread on boots (with dirt) can transport parvo. Thus infecting the enviroment of the next yard. It takes only a single lick of their fur, eating off the ground, or simply eating the stool for the dog to become infected with parvo.
Upon ingestion by the new host it infects local lymph nodes, quickly multiplies and then via the blood moves to the small intestine where signs of the disease begin in approximately 5-6 days. The virus is extremely deleterious to the lining (mucosa) of the small intestine. The surface of the mucosa is stripped away upsetting crucial barriers and interfering with normal balance of digestive enzyme secretion and nutrient absorption. Additionaly, the normal bacterial flora of the small intestine which aid in digestion are now exposed to ulcerated mucosa, providing a direct route into the blood stream. Fluid loss from both vomiting and diarrhea is dramatic and dehydration ensues. In severe cases of blood lose the dog dies from anemia before dieing of Parvo.
Possible Anemia can form causing the situation to worsen and less likely to resolve. Anemia is the lose of red blood cells and blood content. Anemia can cause weakness, loss of appetite, low immune system, and death from it alone in severe cases. It can cause infection if the puppy starts to win the battle against Parvo and lives longer than a few days allowing the bacteria to mature in the intestine and infect the blood stream. A secondary antibiotic is well worth while if the puppy appears to be recovering from the Parvo.
The onslaught of bacteria and toxins into the blood will ultimately cause death. Precipitous drops in white blood cell (WBC) counts are common and relate directly to the prognosis and outcome of the infection. Ominous drops in white blood cells are attributed to overwhelming degradation of WBC¹s and the direct depressive viral effect on WBC production in the bone marrow. Dogs that survive Parvo tend to have gritty teeth and weaker bones that tend to break very easily from the depression of WBC in that period of time. So even though the dog has gained his nutritional status back as an adult, think twice before hunting with a mouthy one, for his physical status may never be the same.
The incidence of the disease is highest in young dogs and tends to start after the puppy has lost its maternal protection passed on at birth with the first milk (colostrum). This is why it is important not to go by the puppies age for shots, but to go Any age can be infected but, most dogs are infected between the ages of 2-6 months when maternal antibody decreases below a protective level in the puppy. Signs of the disease usually are mild to nonexistent. However, a full blown case of parvovirus untreated can easily be fatal. Certain breeds seem to be more sensitive to the disease; possibly related to their immune system. Generally, a diagnosis is made on the signs of the disease and falling white blood cell counts. Good rapid diagnostic tests are also available at veterinary clinics. Additionally, the virus can be found in the feces by commercial labs using electron microscopy.

Even after the host has appeared cured from this virus, the virus may linger around the enviromenet to infect another host. The virus is extremely hardy and survives for long periods outside its host. The virus will live in the environment up to 6 months and survives winter nicely under a blanket of snow where the temperature is usually around 25-28 degrees F. Extremely cold temperatures prior to snow fall will kill the virus. Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is the only effective disinfecting agent.

Treatment for the disease is primarily supportive although recently immunotherapy has become important. Historically, dogs were supported by aggressive intravenous fluid therapy to combat hydration and antibiotics given to reduce secondary bacterial infection. Food is withheld until vomiting has ceased. Many veterinarians employ antiemetics to lessen the signs and aid in the control of dehydration. Blood transfusions have been employed to increase the level of globulins, red blood cells and serum protein being lost via the bowel¹s bloody diarrhea. Most recently, antitoxins and antiparvo serum are showing results. With hospitalization and vigorous support most dogs will survive severe cases of parvo virus. Early detection and aggressive therapy are the key to success.

Prevention of parvo virus is by vaccination. Modified live vaccines are the most effective and continue to be safe. Producing and effective level of protection requires frequent vaccination starting at 8 weeks of age and repeating every 3-4 weeks until the puppy is sixteen weeks old. Some investigators have suggested extending the protocol until 20-26 weeks because of the persistence of maternal antibody in the puppy which neutralizes the vaccine. Currently, annual revaccination is recommended. Recently, it has been suggested that repeated annual vaccination may also produce persistent antibody interference to the vaccination. After the initial puppy series and first annual revaccination, boosters in the future may be recommended triennial or less frequent. A change in vaccine protocol, until further research is done, is not recommended.

Too much bathing won't suit your dog

The only time to bathe your dog is when he's dirty, or on the advice of your veterinary surgeon. The ideal time to bathe your dog is every 6-8 weeks. Overdo it and you'll strip his coat of all the natural oils that protect him against the cold and wet. Only bathe him in fine weather or indoors to avoid the cold and only use products that have been designed for dogs. NEVER use a domestic detergent or disinfectant, as this will harm his skin. Scented baby wipes are a great way of cleaning your puppy/dog without drying out the skin from too much bathing ! Also, if your dog has been outside and comes back in with that "doggy smell"...there are several colognes made just for your pet.

...Fleas...

This information may seem a little verbose, but to control fleas you must understand them.

Fleas are blood sucking parasites which spend 95% of their adult life on your pet. As many as 2000 eggs can be laid by the adult female flea within a few weeks. Eggs are laid on the pet, then they fall off into the carpet, grass, or similar areas. Fleas generally do not live for more than a few months, but reproduce quickly. A blood meal is required prior to egg laying. Fleas generally cannot live long without a blood meal, which means you will not find many adult fleas outside unless the pets stay outside to provide a source of blood. The adult flea comprises only 5% of the entire flea life cycle. Since the adult is the only one we see, imagine how many immature stages are in our house or yards that comprise the other 95%. Eighty five per cent of the immature stages are eggs and larvae. The other 10% is composed of the pupae which is much like a cocoon and is resistant to insecticides.

Most people concentrate on what they see, which is natural of course, but controlling only 5% of the total flea population will never get us anywhere. The solution to flea control is to concentrate on the eggs and larval stages before they develop the cocoon or pupae. The eggs and larvae need the correct amount of humidity, sunlight, and food source to survive. These facts help us to decide where these flea stages may hide. For instance, outside flea eggs and larvae can be found in the shaded, cooler areas. Examples are under tree limbs, bushes, dog pens, under decks ,etc. These immature stages generally cannot complete their development out in the sunny areas of your yard, so there is not point in using flea products in the middle of the sunny yard.

In the house, flea larvae and pupae will be deep in your carpet or just under the edge of furniture, not more than a few inches out of the light. Concentrating on flea control in carpeted areas is the most productive for indoor control. Also it is very important to use flea products on rugs or door mats (indoor and outdoor) where flea eggs may be deposited as the pets sits or stands on the rug.

If you see or feel fleas on you, they are usually the pre-emerging fleas which are the ones coming out of the pupae. Immature fleas can stay in the pupae stage for months until all the right conditions enable them to break out of their cocoon. Young fleas can be hopping and sucking blood within minutes after hatching out of the pupae stage. A common occurrence is when everyone goes on vacation for a few days to weeks then comes back to a warm house only to find that the house is infested with fleas. Actually what happens is that the vibration of people walking around triggers the hatching of the pupae. Usually when people see fleas on themselves it is the pre-emerging flea that has not found your dog or cat. Remember that fleas live most of their life on our pets, they prefer pets over us, so if we find fleas on us, we can believe that we really have problems with immature fleas, eggs, larvae, and pupae. Just killing the adult flea will not solve the problem.

It is also important to remember that not seeing fleas on your pet does not rule them out. We know that cats can groom as many as 75% of the fleas off their body in one day. Sometimes you can see flea dirt, which looks like small curled black specks. This flea dirt is actually flea waste material and is composed primarily of dried blood. When pets are washed they can actually have so much "flea dirt" on them that it may seem as if the pet is bleeding due to the dissolving dried blood.

Products that control fleas are many and varied. Most contact kill products contain pyrethrins or permethrin chemicals. These chemicals are commonly found in pet flea shampoos, mousse products, some dips, and many flea sprays. These products usually do not work but a few minutes and long lasting activity into the next day is poor to none. The best way to control fleas is to use an adulticide ( products that kill adult fleas) and an IGR or insect growth regulator. These products not only kill the adult flea but also prevent the development of eggs into larvae and finally into pupae. Veterinarians are very knowledgeable about fleas and they should be consulted with questions concerning the effectiveness and safety of all flea products.

Some of the newer products to be available to veterinarians for the use on pets have been very effective at not only killing adults fleas but slowing the development of the life cycle. One such product is a monthly pill for dogs and an oral liquid for cats. Promises are that there will soon be an injectable product that will last for six months to help control fleas. Infomercials have also made us aware of a new product that is applied on the skin once a month to dogs and cats. This products is said to kill 95% of the fleas within 24 hours. Another spray product will kill fleas for three months and ticks for one month with just one application. The spray can also be used on cats but will only last for one month on fleas.

There are exciting new products on the horizon to control fleas. Consult us or your veterinarian about the best way to safely control fleas on your pet and its environment. If you have specific questions concerning fleas or their control please E-mail us at this site and we will gladly answer.

 
Ticks

Ticks are very common in south Georgia. The most common ticks found in that area are the Deer Tick, Brown Dog Tick, and American Dog Tick. Ticks can be found almost anywhere, but primarily in grass, woods, or bushy areas. You generally do not see the tick when they crawl onto you or your pet but soon the tick has imbedded its mouth parts into your skin and becomes firmly attached until it is removed.

Dogs, cats, and humans are commonly affected by ticks. Since dogs frequent the areas tick live, they are the most affected. Ticks attach themselves to the skin in pursuit of a blood meal. Late spring, summer, and early fall are the times of the year we see most tick infestations. Some ticks can live up to two years, survive temperatures below freezing and lay up to 5,000 eggs.

Ticks are important not only to dogs and cats but to humans as well, for ticks can transmit diseases that can be harmful or even fatal to pets and humans. The most common tick transmitted diseases in our area are Lyme Disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Canine Ehrlichiosis, Ehrlichiosis in Humans, and Human Granulocytic Ehrlichosis. By far the most common condition seen in our area is Tick Paralysis. Some dogs are especially sensitive to a toxin (poison) found in the saliva of the tick. This toxin paralyzes the nervous system to the point that the dog can no longer walk. Most cases are treatable and recovery is usually uneventful. However, in some cases the dogs become over heated due to their inability to get out of the sun, or can be injured if near the road. Deaths have been seen as an indirect cause from Tick Paralysis.

Ticks are difficult to kill and many products that claim to have an effect on ticks do an ineffective job. Special tick collars, sprays and topically applied chemicals are used to control ticks. Before using any product against ticks it is best to consult our office or call your regular veterinarian for specific instructions.

Since humans can also get diseases from ticks it is best not to remove the tick with you bare fingers. The use of tweezers or special inexpensive tick removal devices are the best way to remove ticks. Removing ticks incompletely may allow portions of the mouth parts or head of the tick to remain attached to the skin. Infections and scar tissue that may never go away can be the result of ineffective tick removal.

Spaying & Neutering

If you are a responsible caring dog owner, there are many very good reasons to consider spaying and neutering your dog(s), and very few good reasons not to.
 

• Prevents prostate and testicular cancer (dogs).
  
   
• Prevents Pyometra, a serious and potentially fatal infection of the uterus, most commonly seen in unspayed females  6+ years of age.
  
   
• Greatly reduces the rate of uterine and breast cancer (in females) when done before the first (or second) esterus cycle.
  
   
• Reduces inter-male aggression (dogs).
  
   
• Reduces dominance aggression towards people (dogs).
  
   
• Reduces urinary "marking" (of vertical objects such as furniture.)
  
   
• Reduces "mounting" behavior, and sexual frustration.
  
   
• Reduces roaming.
  
   
• Prevents false pregnacies (females).
  
   
• Prevents unwanted litters. (It is truly amazing what some dogs will do in order to mate with a female dog who comes into "season". Some dogs will dig under fences to get to another dog, while some have even managed to mate through chain link fences!)
  
   
• Prevents neighborhood dogs from camping outside your home waiting for the opportunity to mate with your female dog.
  
   
• Keeps you from having to keep your dogs away from playing and socializing with other dogs for a total of six weeks each year.

SIGNS OF PYOMETRA:

LETHARGY

LACK OF APPETITE

DRINKING AND URINATING EXCESSIVELY

VOMITING

DEHYDRATION

FEVER(20 % OF CASES)

SHOCK

ABDOMINAL DISTENTION AND/OR TENDERNESS

I recommend that a female be spayed for this reason.

Housebreaking

Crate Training

A rule of thumb about size if you're using the crate for housetraining: the crate should only be big enough for the dog to comfortably stand up and turn around in. You don't want the crate so big that the dog will mess at one end and sleep at the other. For large-sized breeds that will continue to grow substantially, you may need to buy a larger size later on if you intend for your dog to continue using the crate after it is housetrained.
 

Fellow Breeders:

Dogwood Kennel

Callaway Kennel

Rockridge Kennel

Pawpatch Kennel